Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
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sijandy
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Postby sijandy » Thu Jun 04, 2015 5:49 pm
Is there such a tape that can take on resin that can be used in a layup? For my next board i'm using a cf/fg combo and don't want the cf to cover the entire deck/base but just across the centre but the weave falls apart when you cut it unless you tape it first. Any ideas if that makes any sense?
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zfennell
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Postby zfennell » Thu Jun 04, 2015 9:51 pm
both carbon and glass cloth can be sourced in narrow widths.
2"-6" wide 'tape' is common.
the edges do not frey, but are a bit thicker than the rest of the material.
if you put it beneath a top layer, it tends to trap air at the edge.
if you put it on top, a bit of sanding is necessary to 'fair' the edge.
I guess if you purchased 6" wide uni-D tape the stitching would be more secure w/o the thick edge.
otherwise placing a light veil of glass over the narrow sections would help to keep things in place as you wet it out
regards,
-bill
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sijandy
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Postby sijandy » Thu Jun 04, 2015 9:57 pm
zfennell wrote:both carbon and glass cloth can be sourced in narrow widths.
2"-6" wide 'tape' is common.
the edges do not frey, but are a bit thicker than the rest of the material.
if you put in beneath a top layer, it tends to trap air at the edge.
if you put it on top, a bit of sanding is necessary to 'fair' the edge.
regards,
-bill
Yeah but the prob is i want to use up what I have left as it's expensive. So does the kind of tape i was referring to not exist? What would be the issues with just using masking tape and making sure when i cut out the shape i leave only say 5mm of tape on the cloth which should be enough to keep the weave clean?
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plummet
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Postby plummet » Thu Jun 04, 2015 10:41 pm
What about using spray glue to glue the carbon on first then resin up once trimmed and in place? There is a 3m spray adhesive that can work with resins. I haven't used it before but seen it used in the bro kite videos.
Nomad kiteboards have it dialed.
Looks like they layup top and bottom sheets separately on flat panels then bond them to the core....... Would make it easier to get those perfect carbon lines. But at the same time they sacrifice the chemical bond with the core if they layed up and pressed all at once.
http://www.nomadkiteboarding.com/index- ... -blog.html
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BWD
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Postby BWD » Thu Jun 04, 2015 11:01 pm
A lot of guys that do nice looking sharp clean edged inlays and tapes (or shapes patches or whatever you call them) on surfboards will wet out the cloth tape on a sheet of glass or plastic and let it partly cure then apply it to the board as if applying a veneer.
To do this right it has to be pretty green , i.e. not-done-yet. It's an art, especially with structural tape or cloth as opposed to decorative fabric, and especially with epoxy.
When it is partly cured you should be able to make clean cuts with a fresh razor.
Get it just right and it is still sticky enough to bond well.
Time it just right and the surface chemistry will allow you to add a thin skim of resin to help.
Screw it up and sand it off....
It's an art.
So are the other methods.
The spray glue also works but doesn't guarantee cosmetic perfection.
Play around with it...
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zfennell
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Postby zfennell » Thu Jun 04, 2015 11:42 pm
with regard to BWDs comment.
the surfboard guys do something call a 'cut lap' when laminating the overlap of top and bottom.
cured layer has tape (nothing more elaborate than good masking tape) to mark desired edge.
final layer is put in place and wet-out overlapping the tape.
once green, a sharp razor is used to trim top lam to tape outline.
off-cuts are gently removed trying not to disturb lam.
tape is removed.
small roller, wet finger, small resin brush, plastic sheet , etc. is used to massage cut edge back in place before final kick.
carbon is harder to cut and see the tape underneath.
but folks do it.
as said, its a bit of an art.
do a search on swaylocks.com for descriptions from the grown-ups.
-bill
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mthboards1
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Postby mthboards1 » Thu Jun 04, 2015 11:56 pm
I have used carbon fiber strips that I cut over cured epoxy with just tape to keep the carbon line strait and clean, once its cured you can just break it off right from the tape and it leaves almost a perfect line this worked with 3 k carbon don't know if you will work with thicker stuff. But like someone else said the bond wont be as good but will work.
Now I just cut the carbon and put it under the fiberlass and epoxy it all at once. doesn't come out perfect but its good.
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tkettlepoint
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Postby tkettlepoint » Fri Jun 05, 2015 1:09 am
don't be so hard on yourself just get Stabilized Carbon Fiber/LMFG Fabric 2x2 stays together pretty good when you cut it. And then right down the edge of the carbon to fiberglass seam do a small black pin stripe or red... looks trick and easy to do
just my 2 cents
terrie
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downunder
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Postby downunder » Fri Jun 05, 2015 3:55 am
plummet wrote:What about using spray glue to glue the carbon on first then resin up once trimmed and in place? There is a 3m spray adhesive that can work with resins. I haven't used it before but seen it used in the bro kite videos.
Nomad kiteboards have it dialed.
Looks like they layup top and bottom sheets separately on flat panels then bond them to the core....... Would make it easier to get those perfect carbon lines. But at the same time they sacrifice the chemical bond with the core if they layed up and pressed all at once.
http://www.nomadkiteboarding.com/index- ... -blog.html
Good catch Plummet.
It is interesting how they opted for a vac and not a press.
To topic, duno about the tape, but using fast epoxy would work. I did that on kevlar and when epoxy kicked in I cut it fast, placed on my board and wetted again with slow epoxy.
D.
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