Board Graphic Delaminating.

[LiquidXtasy]

Longwhitecloud, so i'm heating up the plastic so it will bond better with the epoxy right?

[longwhitecloud]

Sand both surfaces rough.
Just touch the yellow flame on the plastic( not on the glass /epoxy).. it is not heating it up.. it is to make the surface better for sticking... Plastic is generally useless for sticking to things.

Then clean with acetone or whatever solvent.



Then apply epoxy and clamp together.. mask everything with masking tape first..

Good luck!

[Bille]

If I was fixing that I would use liquid epoxy, like Resin Research resin, which is UV stable and will be clear and not turn brown in the sun. Idon;t know anything about that stuff you have and what it might look like or how thick it is, so it might be OK, but I doubt it will be very good.

I would sand both surfaces with maybe a 200 grit or so paper, to give the resin something to mechanically bond to.
...
And everything else ...


Hope that helps!
Peter

But i'd use 150 or 180g wet/dry sandpaper & water ; so Ya don't need
breath that dusty crap !!

Bille

[LiquidXtasy]

Thanks for the support everyone.

This board was passed down to me from a line of good kiters at my local beach. So after I fix it up and learn on it, I'm going to keep passing it down to the next begginer. I feel like this board has a lot of history that I want to add to, and then pass it on to the next.

Thanks again!

[LiquidXtasy]

UPDATE*
Finally got some time to get this done today. It was a lot easier than I thought. I took some pictures, so hopefully this might help someone else out, and so you can critisize my work. But here is the run down of how it went down.

First, brushed out all the sand in the cracks with a dry paint brush. Then hand sanded with 60 grit sandpaper.

Then taped up the edges with masking tape.

Used a 4 dollar epoxy and hardener from Lowes, called Devcon. Which is supposed to be good for fiberglass, but some reports saying that it turns yellow in the sun. I don't care about this because this is going in between a layer of plastic and a layer of fiberglass, so on it goes!

Those little clamps where 47 cents at home depot, why not?

After it dried I filled in any lose edges with more epoxy so no water leaks in. Then I peeled off the masking tape, which revealed these little air pockets that I still don't know how to get rid of, I guess if I would have mixed more epoxy and let it drip into the cracks instead of trying to smear it in with a mixing stick might have been better.

After it got tacky I wiped off any expoxy dripping off the sides hoping it would save time sanding.
Overall, I am satisfied with the end result, it sucks I couldn't get everything perfectly flat with no air bubbles, but I wanted the edges flat and that's what I got. All for under 10 bucks! All I have to do now is resand the edges smooth, which isn't much, and if any water leaks in, then bleed it out and repatch. And there's only 1 way to test that

Thanks again for the helpful advice everyone! It is now time to ride!

[FLandOBX]

Hey, Lxt. If it's any consolation, I had exactly the same problem with one of my boards, followed the same procedure as you did (but also added a weight to the top of the board while the epoxy dried), and ended up with an identical result. I'm not sure why the ripples appeared in the laminate. In the end, it's better having the laminate secured than not. But getting the ripples out is tricky.

[LiquidXtasy]

Hey, Lxt. If it's any consolation, I had exactly the same problem with one of my boards, followed the same procedure as you did (but also added a weight to the top of the board while the epoxy dried), and ended up with an identical result. I'm not sure why the ripples appeared in the laminate. In the end, it's better having the laminate secured than not. But getting the ripples out is tricky.

Yeah it was difficult to even get it to where i got it, I was using a small popsickle stick to apply the epoxy inside the crevices. Maybe if I had more of a liquidy epoxy that didn't set up in 5 minutes I could have spent more time getting it better in the crevices. But I can't see how anyone could get it 100% perfect with no air pockets.

[Bille]

...
Maybe if I had more of a liquidy epoxy that didn't set up in 5 minutes I could have spent more time getting it better in the crevices. But I can't see how anyone could get it 100% perfect with no air pockets.

If you had used 30 or 60-min epoxy ; the job woulda looked about 1/2 better.
Vacuum bagging with a really slow epoxy would have made it maybe 2/3 better
looking ; but remember that laminate you fixed is sometimes placed directly
in the mold, making it way easier than an after-fix.

Ya did a Good job ; maybe a slower epoxy next time.

Bille

[LiquidXtasy]

I appreciate it Bille