Luckily it was. Especially for a winter session. Glass on the inside of the reef, waves outside for some freeride boosting. Yeh was especially good actually.
Funny had a 4 hour session in Bali sanur yesterday, then off to a sports bar to watch the Aussies get raped by the mother country again in cricket, ( well it was 9/117, then that young bloke from WA broke all kind of records for the 11th wicket)... Has me some coconut curry chicken soup thingy, laying back on a couch with my daughter drinking bintang, son and wife on the opposite couch and I thought about this post. I was so calm and fulfilled at that moment. Not an ounce of aggression, angst or recoil anywhere.
I pity blokes built for battle who don't have an outlet. Comes out in other terrible ways.
I also pity blokes who I know who have misinformed women in their lives who restrict this outlet.
Funny we spend a lot of time trying to work out the mystery of the female form, in all its complexity and yet I wonder how much time they spend working us out. Wouldn't take long, pretty simple really. They'd all be better off if they got over themselves and worked it out.
Local Beach: Casuarina Beach Rapic Creek Lee Point Buffallo Creek
Favorite Beaches: Old Woman Rock, Darwin Oka Point, Sanuar, Bali Phan Rang, Vietnam Cemetary's, Mui Ne, Vietnam Point Moore, Hells Gates, Geraldton, Western Australia Rapid Creek, Darwin, Australia Lee Point, Darwin, Australia (my local spot) Nugas/Lakey Peak, Sumbawa Marion Bay, Tasmania Long Beach, Robe, South Australia
Gear: North Juice 2018 17m North Evo 2018 14m North Rebel 2012 12m North Rebel 2012 9m North Rebel 2014 7m North Nugget 5'5" Surfboard North WAM 6'2" Surfboard North Whip 5'6" surfboard North SkyPro 138cm TT Underground FLX 144 TT