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 Post subject: Re: North 5th Flying Lines DIY
PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:40 pm 
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Used Aquaseal before, worked great. Aquaseal is very runny - 5200 is very thick like peanut butter very easy to set.


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 Post subject: Re: North 5th Flying Lines DIY
PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 5:46 pm 
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Slingshot to North Mod...loose above the bar depower and eject onto the front line... :P


Image


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 Post subject: Re: North 5th Flying Lines DIY
PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 2:36 am 
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NYKiter wrote:
I chased valve leaks on a LF havoc for several months using aquaseal.
I got so fed up I just broke down and purchased another bladder.
When you glob aquaseal on the bladder it curls up a little and its just messy as f*ck.
I'm going to have to say that the Type A Tear Aid used in the ustick valves is better than aquaseal.
Cant get Tear Aid in double side anywhere....they dont make it available to the public as far as I know.
If you can avoid folds and bubbles its way better than aquaseal...in my opinion... :-?


Like I said, with the thicker 3M 5200 build a ridge around the valve base, that will smother any tiny gaps left between the valve and bladder


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 Post subject: Re: North 5th Flying Lines DIY
PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:45 pm 
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Location: Comox, BC
Tried the new Airtime valve trap yet - http://www.airtimekite.com/index.php/airtime-kite-bladders/valve-repair/valve-trap/valve-trap.html ??

Haven't re-glued many valves since I started using the valve traps, much faster & easier, durability is still TBC, but so far so good ...


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 Post subject: Re: North 5th Flying Lines DIY
PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 11:45 pm 
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GregK wrote:
Tried the new Airtime valve trap yet - http://www.airtimekite.com/index.php/airtime-kite-bladders/valve-repair/valve-trap/valve-trap.html ??

Haven't re-glued many valves since I started using the valve traps, much faster & easier, durability is still TBC, but so far so good ...


I must be missing something here- if you have a standard size valve, why wouldn't you replace the whole valve for five bucks more? Valves sometimes crack at the base.


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 Post subject: Re: North 5th Flying Lines DIY
PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 12:52 am 
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Sometimes when attempting to remove a leaking valve, one can inadvertently tear the bladder.
Happened to me more times than I care to mention. If the tear is long enough then the diameter of the new hole can be huge. Ergo, the valve trap covers a larger diameter hole on the bladder.
:pirate:


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 Post subject: Re: North 5th Flying Lines DIY
PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 3:13 am 
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NYKiter wrote:
Sometimes when attempting to remove a leaking valve, one can inadvertently tear the bladder.
Happened to me more times than I care to mention. If the tear is long enough then the diameter of the new hole can be huge. Ergo, the valve trap covers a larger diameter hole on the bladder.
:pirate:


Yes, but they sell new valves with larger bases as well.


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 Post subject: Re: North 5th Flying Lines DIY
PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 8:05 am 
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Location: Comox, BC
William Munney wrote:

I must be missing something here- if you have a standard size valve, why wouldn't you replace the whole valve for five bucks more? Valves sometimes crack at the base.

Agree with you there in some cases, if it's a worn-out inflate or dump that has delaminated, then yes, a complete new valve is best ( and I've seen Airtime are now supplying many of their stick-ons mounted with a valve trap rather than two-sided TearAid type A ).

However if it's a 1-pump / strut valve that has delaminated, and the valve body is still in great shape, then why not re-mount it with a valve trap instead of re-gluing with urethane glue.

Major thread hijack here ...


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 Post subject: Re: North 5th Flying Lines DIY
PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 3:40 pm 
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Looks like they use double sided type A tear aid on all their valves...not just the valve trap...


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