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 Post subject: Re: harness advice for foiling
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 8:23 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2008 6:15 pm
Posts: 168
Location: France
R V, SUPER INFO, MASSIVE THANK YOU! :thumb:
I also thought how much more comfortable (less back twist)) when simply walking back while having enough wind to fly the kite but not the foilboard.
I love to build things so I may make a d i y dynabar with thick spectra just to teast the concept. Thanx for photo!
Funny but I found DY BAR in my "saved bookmarks " from 2 years ago
R V ........
If you read this, why not add the self centering thick bunji to your sliding hook rope only set up? Is it better? :?:
And because you have so many DYNA bar sessions under your belt, do you feel that the latest version is just worth buying now?
So nice that you guys take the time to reply wih such great info, I only hope I can return the favor someday!
R H


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 Post subject: Re: harness advice for foiling
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 01, 2008 7:19 am
Posts: 87
Location: San Mateo, CA
Engine harness + Dynabar is the ultimate in comfort and freedom. I recommend smaller chicken loop to counter the increased reach caused by the Dynabar. I have tried the rope, but prefer the wave slider for waves and the freeride slider for everything else.


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 Post subject: Re: harness advice for foiling
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 6:35 am
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I can't speak for all of the harnesses you've listed. I used to have a Dakine Fusion and liked it, but moved away from a seat harness and haven't tried other seat harnesses. As far as toe-side stance, a sliding spreader bar is going to play a much bigger role than any harness. They really allow you to open up your posture on toe-side stance, it totally changed my perception of what was possible on toe-side and it is infinitely more comfortable.

There are a few options here: 1.) Dynabar (I've never used one but people love them, a bit expensive for me). 2.) Dakine sliding spreader (I have one and have mixed feelings as sometimes it gets stuck and won't slide). 3.) a piece of rope tied across your spreader bar with a carabiner on it (the carabiner attaches to your chicken loop and slides along the rope, it helps to hacksaw the harness hook off, but is not necessary). I find the cheapskate rope method works fantastically well, but but you really need to have a lot of faith in your QR, because if things go south you are not getting your chicken loop unclipped from a carabiner.

If I'm on a directional, I love the sliding spreader bar, if I'm on a TT, not so much. I find them not great for big jumps.


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 Post subject: Re: harness advice for foiling
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 5:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 14, 2002 1:00 am
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Location: PASA Level III Instructor FL- OBX - MI - the world
revhed wrote:
If you read this, why not add the self centering thick bunji to your sliding hook rope only set up? Is it better? :?:
And because you have so many DYNA bar sessions under your belt, do you feel that the latest version is just worth buying now?R H


yes RH, I have a self centering bungie on this prototype bar. It is good to have the bungie mostly for hooking back in, but is not entirely necessary. I think I have replaced 2 bungies in 6 years. The spare parts are usually supplied with a Dynabar when you buy one, but of course you can source the materials yourself as well..

and yes, I can probably get by with my old dynabar (and I have a few other more recent versions actually :oops: ) but I think the new forged bar looks really clean and strong.

I would say the best reason for anyone buying one of the new bars is to have the option of rope slide or steel rod...and an easy way to change back and forth. I would prefer to have a sliding hook than a carabiner to be honest...although a carabiner will work.

ps...just another fyi...a few years ago I did a little test with my students to see if they were comfortable with the dynabar. I would have to say that it was an overwhelming :thumb: for dynabar. I was concered that the dynabar might complicate bar control, but it did not. It also made standing and walking upwind with the kite MUCH more comfortable (and safe I would venture to say) because the kite doesnt twist your body around so much while walking upwind, nor twist the spreader bar into your body.


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 Post subject: Re: harness advice for foiling
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 7:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2012 2:59 am
Posts: 158
The V8 version on Facebook looks really nice but I can't find it on
http://www.jaystore.eu/index.php?option ... &Itemid=61
Facebook says "coming soon" but that was from November 2013.


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 Post subject: Re: harness advice for foiling
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 10:21 pm 
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Location: PASA Level III Instructor FL- OBX - MI - the world
ozchrisb wrote:
The V8 version on Facebook looks really nice but I can't find it on
http://www.jaystore.eu/index.php?option ... &Itemid=61
Facebook says "coming soon" but that was from November 2013.


I believe these new products were supposed to be ready April 2014...so maybe the website is not up to date...or they are not 100% ready for distribution. If you email Jayfactor directly perhaps you can get an answer.


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 Post subject: Re: harness advice for foiling
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 7:32 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2008 6:15 pm
Posts: 168
Location: France
[quote="tmcfarla"]

a piece of rope tied across your spreader bar with a carabiner on it (the carabiner attaches to your chicken loop and slides along the rope, it helps to hacksaw the harness hook off, but is not necessary). I find the cheapskate rope method works fantastically well, but but you really need to have a lot of faith in your QR, because if things go south you are not getting your chicken loop unclipped from a carabiner. :thumb:
And maybe add the bunji centering mod to the carabiner. :idea:
I really like this idea and am off to but a carabiner NOW to test this afternoon, Thanx for idea!
This might give time to see what happens with DY BAR V 8?
I think I have seen mountain climbing carabiners with a assim form so that the bigger end can go to the c loop
for better quick release and they have spring opening so attaching should be easy?
I will post photo when I have system built.
Thanx again for wonderful info!
R H


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