Forum for kitesurfers
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sijandy
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Postby sijandy » Tue Jul 29, 2014 4:36 pm
Making up an old bar from spares and need a depower rope and the CSS bungy, had a look online and they're £15 and £12 respectively... for a bit of rope - f*ck that. If anyones got any knocking about that have some life left in em hit me up cheers. Failing that i'll make em instead, I refuse to hand over £30 for a couple of bits of rope.
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t3rse
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Postby t3rse » Tue Jul 29, 2014 4:41 pm
You can get the depower rope from a marine store...in the US, West Marine carries the amsteel Samson rope which is what it is..and it's about 1$ USD per foot, and I think you need about 5 feet (I usually get 6 just to be safe).
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sijandy
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Postby sijandy » Tue Jul 29, 2014 5:59 pm
t3rse wrote:You can get the depower rope from a marine store...in the US, West Marine carries the amsteel Samson rope which is what it is..and it's about 1$ USD per foot, and I think you need about 5 feet (I usually get 6 just to be safe).
@ t3rse, this is my option if noone has a spare lying around. What about the dual thickness of the ss depower rope?
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t3rse
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Postby t3rse » Wed Jul 30, 2014 4:54 am
sijandy wrote:t3rse wrote:You can get the depower rope from a marine store...in the US, West Marine carries the amsteel Samson rope which is what it is..and it's about 1$ USD per foot, and I think you need about 5 feet (I usually get 6 just to be safe).
@ t3rse, this is my option if noone has a spare lying around. What about the dual thickness of the ss depower rope?
Here, we can get both the stock size, and a size down at the local store. A size down is actually rated the same as the older stock stuff (if my memory serves, 3/8 vs 1/4). The cleat works fine but the stopper will be a little large (just get the newer one which is pretty cheap or get one from the marine store and drill/tap it since they tend to be designed to sit on a knot). I have spare bungees and whatnot but I don't think it would be cost effective to ship across the pond. One thing I'm going to do with my next re-rig is change out the bearing for a hybrid with ceramic balls to see if it lives longer (about 7$ USD).
I should note that my bars are the older lock and load design and I think the later ones have a spliced line so if that is what you mean by "dueal thickness"...honestly I wouldn't worry. The 1/4" stuff is rated at 5400 lbs.
One caveat I'll give is the screws will snap off if they have been subjected to significant salt time. I have two full spare sets of the chicken loop rig just in case.
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sijandy
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Postby sijandy » Wed Jul 30, 2014 2:47 pm
t3rse wrote:I should note that my bars are the older lock and load design and I think the later ones have a spliced line so if that is what you mean by "dueal thickness"...honestly I wouldn't worry. The 1/4" stuff is rated at 5400 lbs.
Yeah that's what i meant, it's not strength i'm worried about more whether a single thickness rope will run through everything ie stopper/cleat/butterbox effectively or not, I know i'll have to drill out the stopper (assuming i go with a single thickness equivelent to the thicker part of the newer dual thickness rope). Tbh i havn't had a close look at the butterbox yet, i'm sure it'll be easy enough i just thought i'd see if anyones got any spares knocing about before i go through the effort of making my own.
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jedi1
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Postby jedi1 » Wed Jul 30, 2014 3:31 pm
How do you want to attach a non-spliced rope inside a butterbox? Normally there's a pin you put the loop around.
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t3rse
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Postby t3rse » Wed Jul 30, 2014 3:52 pm
jedi1 wrote:How do you want to attach a non-spliced rope inside a butterbox? Normally there's a pin you put the loop around.
The older ones have a bearing. I make an eye splice that is really short and then stich it. You could just make an eye for the pin.
Splicing page
http://www.samsonrope.com/Pages/SpliceInstructions.aspx
This is the one for the amsteel 12 strand:
http://www.samsonrope.com/Documents/Spl ... 12_WEB.pdf
Splicing really isn't difficult. Just take your time lock stitching it.
If you wanted, you could make a dual diameter line. There are instructions there somewhere. Also, when you eye splice it, it gets pretty fat, so maybe the dual diamter is just an extra long bury, but I haven't examined this SS bar configuration in detail.
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