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 Post subject: Dyno 2011 18 T2 Bladder replacement?
PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 6:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 06, 2013 2:20 am
Posts: 207
So I managed after looking for one year to get a Dyno 2011 18.
The Kite arrived in good condition, looks like it was max 20 times on the water max (could only tell from the slightly brownish colourchange of the white canopy and the slightly faded colours of the pig tails. Middle strut re-sewing/enforcing 40cm and Fronttube 5cm patch were fixed professionally.

Pumped it up with exactly 6 psi, also the struts and washed it and checked it completely.

When rolling it together to let it dry indoor with pumped up struts, the middle struts bladder popped. Found that while repairing the middle strut the shop that fixed it had maybe damaged the bladder just 1 cm before its end, 1,5 cm, stretched area (from pulling out maybe), where it then popped.

I applied a preglued bladder patch. Wouldnt hold air longer than 30 min.
Applied a big bladder patch and glue. Same thing.

I cut off the last 5cm from bladder and welded a new connection with the iron.

After pumping it popped again, funny thing was it popped 3 times, first tip, then middle then beginning of bladder all at 5-6psi, Handpumping indoor. So the bladder is history....

Now i need some advise - shall i order an original T2 center bladder or take an after market/custom one (thicker)? I will have it fixed by a kite repair shop.

Which shop in EU to choose?
Special instructions to the shop? (As the Dyno only has a small enforced 3mm hole at each strut start, where a small white string, attached to the bladderend sticks out and I have no idea how the vent is attached to the bladder/how to change it?

Also I am not sure if the middle strut is sewn/repaired wrong and it will caue the new bladder to pop again? (sharp edges inside from sewing etc?)

Shall I use a new vent or keep the old one (still good)?

Help!!!


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 Post subject: Re: Dyno 2011 18 T2 Bladder replacement?
PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 12:24 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2012 11:25 am
Posts: 2425
Email/pm puetz....he's the king of bladder repair...living in the shit wind capital of Australia, still has this kite, had plenty of them actually. He has helped me out no end.

For a north replacement powerkiteshop got me a replacement for a 16m dyno...they have to get it made.

As far as your vent question...got no idea, just put a ton of talc on it and put it in...no idea what you are talking about here.

Lucky my 18, no issues. Bugger for ya! That sucks.


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 Post subject: Re: Dyno 2011 18 T2 Bladder replacement?
PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 12:24 pm 
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Hey Westozzy, thanks!

Will pm Puetz!
With the vent i mean i never changed one, so i have no clue.

How would you change the vent on Dyno?


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 Post subject: Re: Dyno 2011 18 T2 Bladder replacement?
PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 10:58 pm 
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Yeh I have no idea about the 'vent' you are talking about, puetz will...

Those bladders are light weight, thin. Never blow them to with a pump outside there strut encasing. Just via your mouth, and only just enough pressure to see if there is a leak....

That's how I blew my centre strut bladder on the 16....developed 'cherries', stretches and they will bulge out and pop. Anyhow Robbie will explain everything to you.


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 Post subject: Re: Dyno 2011 18 T2 Bladder replacement?
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 6:07 pm 
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I just ordered a new bladder and let a shop install the bladder.

Best option I guess if I want to use the kite for a long time.


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 Post subject: Re: Dyno 2011 18 T2 Bladder replacement?
PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 12:42 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2003 12:50 pm
Posts: 855
Location: Darwin, Northern Territory, Australia
Macisback wrote:
I just ordered a new bladder and let a shop install the bladder.

Best option I guess if I want to use the kite for a long time.


... hey Macisback, sent you a pm.

Its not too hard, but I totally understand if your a bit nervous about it,,,, after a few it all becomes pretty easy so I hope for your sake, you don't have to do any more!

Robbie :D


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 Post subject: Re: Dyno 2011 18 T2 Bladder replacement?
PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 9:38 am 
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Hi mate, thank you!

I post your answer here, so everyone can benefit!

The 2011 Dyno uses D2 material for struts and LE because its light but the down side is it will tear easily when under pressure around the stitching or more specifically the holes once a minor tear starts. I had many struts fail this way as I used to be a bit careless and pump the kite to 6.5 and sometimes 7psi, and almost each time the strut would split and wreck the bladder to.

Anyway, you may have something in yours, something sharp so best thing is pull the old bladder out and try to rub with fingers and feel for the sharp object or anything that may cause it. How you deal with it is too hard to explain via text but have a look and see what you can do about it.

Once you have the new bladder make sure you have a string running through from the valve opening to the end of the strut, with the kite on the ground spread out so strut is straight and flat. Tie the string over the valve tip, I found a larks head loop best.

At the valve end, push the bladder into its self and keep going til your level with the valve. Put plenty of talcum or baby powder over the whole bladder. Get a friend to pull string from the valve opening end so that the valve tries to go into strut end and then slowly fold-bend the valve and bladder material into the end all the meanwhile your friend is pulling firmly but gently. The bladder is big and might look like the material won't go in but it will. All of a sudden you will feel it pop in, once in keep pulling string til the valve pops out the valve opening.

With finger, push any excess bladder material into the strut end until you have a tiny bit left just poking out and then fold over the sheath with the velcro on it and make sure it is stuffed in so the velcro aligns with the other velcro part and sticks togeather.

With the valve pulled out, make sure the valve lip is sitting nicely in the opening snug. Now, blow up the strut with your mouth watching as the bladder fills with air and makeing sure you don't have any twists or air pockets. By doing it by mouth, you won't be tempted to over inflate while the bladder re-sits and fills the cavity. Even give it a bit of a massage. Let it down completely then pump it up by mouth again.

If all looks good then you can go to full pressure, makeing sure its 6psi only.

Problems to watch out for. If you have a twist in bladder half way down say, un-do the end of the strut and pull out just the bladder, with the strut/kite concertinered, go as far as the twist is, then pull the strut back which will put the bladder back into the strut. fold over the end again and blow up strut with your mouth again until you get all twists out.

Slow and steady is the key and not too much pressure (hence why you blow it up with your mouth) until you are absolutely sure you have the bladder settled into all cavities.

Hope this helps.

robbie 


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