Chicken Loop Bye Bye?

[plummet]

Note i'd also need to get the safety line through the swivel too.

[FabsPH]

So, I know from experience , in an emergency or other , I had to grab an hold on to the chicken loop to either safe myself or safe/catch my kite. How are you going to hold on to a ball? Remember the SS depower? Nobody could grab it .

Just saying . Me no like

[ronnie]

Note i'd also need to get the safety line through the swivel too.

The Nobile inox swivel can do that job - if you can get one, because they are no longer produced. It has a 4mm hole.

[knot_moving]

Be careful that is not a wichard. It is an unbranded knockoff & I would not in a million years use it where you are counting on it functioning properly.

[cemdev]

Without reading all of this - I see no advantage in moving from a standard CL UNLESS you can redesign the harness so the load is distributed more evenly and less likely to pull up - more comfortable harnesses due to better load spread. I don't really see how that's possible - but that's probably the only benefit that would have me move from a standard CL to something different.

[Bushflyr]

Without reading all of this - I see no advantage in moving from a standard CL UNLESS you can redesign the harness so the load is distributed more evenly and less likely to pull up - more comfortable harnesses due to better load spread. I don't really see how that's possible - but that's probably the only benefit that would have me move from a standard CL to something different.

Well, that's because you're a fncking idiot for posting on a thread you didn't even bother to read. Go back, read the thread, resolve your craniorectal inversion, and maybe have something intelligent to say.

[topmick]

Without reading all of this - I see no advantage in moving from a standard CL UNLESS you can redesign the harness so the load is distributed more evenly and less likely to pull up - more comfortable harnesses due to better load spread. I don't really see how that's possible - but that's probably the only benefit that would have me move from a standard CL to something different.

Well, that's because you're a fncking idiot for posting on a thread you didn't even bother to read. Go back, read the thread, resolve your craniorectal inversion, and maybe have something intelligent to say.

[alford]

INCORRECT%20size%20ring.jpgBushflyr,

Thanks for posting the pictures of the 2 different types of Cabrinha “pelican levers”. The original pelican lever that Cabrinha used when they first made the “mushroom” release is an example of refined engineering, but it does have a potential problem for those of us “tinkerers”, who want to substitute a ring or some other shaped piece of hardware, for the receptive piece that the pelican lever latches onto. Cabrinha designed the “receptive piece” so that it would safely and precisely mate with the pelican lever, using the 2 little stub “arms” to orient and secure the lever in a position, where it would always cleanly release from the “receptive piece”. I discuss this potential safety “hang-up”, on page 13 and 14 of this thread. Here is a picture from that discussion.

The newer pelican lever on the short leashes looks like a cheaper substitute for the original lever, but since it lacks the little stub “arms”, maybe it is actually a safer development in design.

How easy is the "mushroom" to open up and change out to a new main sheeting line? Is there a need for splicing?

[Bushflyr]

Super easy. 3/16" Amsteel Blue will just fit through the hole. You do need to splice, but that's SUPER easy. I use a 6" piece of coat hanger wire for a fid and just tape the end of the line to it. It takes literally less than a minute to do the splice. I ran the tail all the way up to my stopper ball and tapered it down to 3 strands so there's no hard edge, and the area where the bar slides is double thickness the whole way.

Just flip the mushroom backwards, do the splice making sure to tighten the loop as much as possible so the bungie stays snug, then feed the line up through the mushroom afterwards.

When you do the splice the standing end goes all the way through the buried end first and pulled tight. Then you move up ~1 diameter and run the buried end all the way through the standing end. Move up ~1 more diameter and bury the rest of the working end.

Also, since I use a screw down type stopper ball I slipped a 1" long piece of 1/4" PEX over the Amsteel line. It covers the tapered end and keeps the screw from abrading the line while providing a crush surface to really lock in the tail. Overkill, since the splice definitely isn't going to slip, but I had it lying around.

[alford]

Thanks, what type of splice is that called?