Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
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junebug
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Postby junebug » Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:10 pm
faklord wrote: ↑Fri Oct 12, 2018 1:20 pm
junebug wrote: ↑Fri Oct 12, 2018 12:34 pm
I’m going to be building a basic wood foil board made out of pawlownia glassed 6oz top and bottom.
I’m going to use stainless t-nuts for the foil mount inserts. Dumb question, probably, but should I put the t-nuts in before or after glassing? If before, I would assume I’d need to cover the female end on the bottom with tape or something similar to keep the epoxy out of the female channel of the nut?
I would put them in after glassing (glass will help spread the load and reduce possibility of pulling through the soft wood). Ideally then add a local glass patch on top.
I used this method on a board with foam core + carbon skin. Seems to be holding up ok.
Thanks!
It looks like your source is in the UK. Does anyone have a US source? Snowboard inserts won’t work for me; my wood core is going to be approx 22-25mm thick.
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BWD
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Postby BWD » Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:28 pm
You can mount inserts from the deck, just make sure they are in a solid column of epoxy so loads are spread between deck and bottom laminate. Or you can get long nuts or specialty fasteners somewhere, admittedly a pain...
Last edited by
BWD on Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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handy
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Postby handy » Fri Oct 12, 2018 4:00 pm
That's what I do, some flat stainless steel and some Rampa nuts welded together.
For sure you can do the same with regular M8 stainless steel nuts.
just put the whole thing in a hard PVC block and then in your board.
Will hold forever. Biggest advantage , you will be sure that the inserts are placed 100% perfect before they are in you board
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junebug
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 439
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2014 4:14 pm
- Kiting since: 2006
- Weight: 195 lbs
- Style: Freeride Twintip, Strapless Foil
- Gear: Rebels (6m, 8m, 11m, 13m)
Nobile NHP
Boxers (3.5m, 4m, 5m, 7m, 10m, 12m) (flat water)
Peak4s (3m, 4m, 5m, 6m) (waves)
Lift 150 v1 Surf front / 38 back (flat water)
Lift 170 v1 Surf front / 26 back (waves)
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Postby junebug » Sat Oct 13, 2018 9:34 pm
Any reason I couldn't use a coupling nut as an insert?
Like this:
https://www.aimsindustrial.com.au/m8-nu ... x-coupling
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TheJoe
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Postby TheJoe » Sun Oct 14, 2018 9:35 am
It would most likely pull out since the only thing holding it in would be the outer edge under the glass. T-bolts are cheap and designed to hold in.
www.snowboardmaterials.com/index.php/ma ... ng-inserts
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faklord
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Postby faklord » Sun Oct 14, 2018 10:00 am
Those snowboard inserts are 304 stainless?
You could probably get away with coupling nuts if you cut some grooves into the sides for resin to lock into. Easy on a lathe but also doable with a hacksaw - doesn't have to be pretty.
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TheJoe
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Postby TheJoe » Sun Oct 14, 2018 4:17 pm
Yeah they have some deeper ones for kite and wake boards. All are stainless so if you wanted to have a thinner profile you could use some snowboard ones. I all ways route out between inserts to make a block for extra grip with polyurethane.
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BWD
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Postby BWD » Sun Oct 14, 2018 4:36 pm
If you want to groove a coupling nut (or other small round piece of hardware), chuck it in a drill and hold the edge/corner of a file against it while turning medium speed. Similarly you can taper threads this way if needed (on flat of the file of course), etc. works fine with a hand drill.
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junebug
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 439
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2014 4:14 pm
- Kiting since: 2006
- Weight: 195 lbs
- Style: Freeride Twintip, Strapless Foil
- Gear: Rebels (6m, 8m, 11m, 13m)
Nobile NHP
Boxers (3.5m, 4m, 5m, 7m, 10m, 12m) (flat water)
Peak4s (3m, 4m, 5m, 6m) (waves)
Lift 150 v1 Surf front / 38 back (flat water)
Lift 170 v1 Surf front / 26 back (waves)
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Postby junebug » Mon Oct 15, 2018 3:03 pm
BWD wrote: ↑Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:28 pm
You can mount inserts from the deck, just make sure they are in a solid column of epoxy so loads are spread between deck and bottom laminate. Or you can get long nuts or specialty fasteners somewhere, admittedly a pain...
Sorry for all the noob board builder questions, but I have one more:
If using a pronged t nut that has a shaft that is shorter then the board is thick, is it better to (1) mount it on the deck with the prongs in the wood, as designed, thus leaving a gap at the bottom between the end of the shaft and the bottom of the board or (2) drill halfway through the board from the bottom and set it in epoxy so the thread insert is flush with the bottom of the board?
I would like to avoid this question by using a t nut that goes all the way through the core, but I can’t find one in the US that is 316 SS with a 1 inch shaft.
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