2017-2018 Slingshot Compstick Bars

[Gabri88]

Slingshot made two different bars:

Compstick with Guardian
- Below the bar depower
- Above the bar auto swivel
- Sliding stopper ball

Compstick with Sentinel
- Above the bar depower
- Above the bar auto swivel
- Below the bar manual swivel

in different dimensions:
- 17” x 20m Lines
- 20” x 23m Lines
- 23” x 27m Lines

I suppose that bar is designed to have equal lines length when the bar is fully pulled in (power position). Can you confirm it?

Identifying the type, can someone indicate the following measures? (see attached picture, bar fully pulled in)
A (lines length with bar fully pulled in) => …
B (useful width of bar) => …
C (depower excursion) => …
D (distance from the bar to split point) => …
E (distance from the bar to back lines junction) => …

I thank anyone who will give me these informations
Regards
Gabriele

[grigorib]

...
I suppose that bar is designed to have equal lines length when the bar is fully pulled in (power position). Can you confirm it?
..

Gabrielle,
E must be equal to D (when C is at its max)
With all my love to Slingshot kites they deliver proprietary solution where it isn’t and you’d need a Slingshot-specific set of replacement lines if you ever need to replace them.

Above-the-bar “auto”-swivel is pretty much manual. The “auto” part doesn’t work on any bar I saw.

Below-the-bar swivel can be “auto” - Flysurfer or Core bars and that’s pretty awesome feature

Also Cabrinha, Core, Liquid Force have plastic-wrapped depower lines “C” and it’s another awesome thing

Core though features questionable turn-to-release and high-Y and those are lowering use and safety a lot.

Gotta give credit to Slingshot on their Talon chickenloop. Excellent.

Above reasons are why I ride Cabrinha 1x bar. Golden.
I would hope Slingshot listens to feedback but it took them years to add bungees to hold lines in place.
Hopeless then I guess.

P.s. Not talking about white lines, invisible on snow.

[Gabri88]

Thanks for your reply and for the information received.

Whit reference to attached picture, can someone indicate the measures (A,B,C,D,E)?

Thanks
Gabriele

[grigorib]

Whit reference to attached picture, can someone indicate the measures (A,B,C,D,E)?

Why are you asking, are you decided to make one?
You've got A and B right already but E doesn't matter as lines don't attach at the end of the floater but further out if I recall correctly.

[Gabri88]

You've got A and B right already.

I don't know, if i buy a bar 20"x23m,
A is 23m or A-E=23m ?
B is 20" or F is 20" ?

but E doesn't matter as lines don't attach at the end of the floater but further out if I recall correctly.

would you have a slingshot bar to check?

C (depower excursion) shold be about 47cm.

[ralu81]

I might misunderstand what you are looking for but C changes as it slides up and down to adjust to the rider.

[Gabri88]

I might misunderstand what you are looking for but C changes as it slides up and down to adjust to the rider.

I identify with C, the maximum excursion of bar. From power position (bar fully pulled in) to depower position (released bar).

[Da Yoda]

I don't know, if i buy a bar 20"x23m,
A is 23m or A-E=23m ?
B is 20" or F is 20" ?

It should be this:
23m = A for line length
20" = in between B and F. It's not the bar length, it's the space (width) between the lines where they attach to (intersect) the bar.

[grigorib]

...
I don't know, if i buy a bar 20"x23m,
A is 23m or A-E=23m ?
B is 20" or F is 20" ?
...
would you have a slingshot bar to check?
..

trust me - couple of feet difference doesn't matter. 2m difference you would feel for tricks and jumps timing.

If you're a beginner, don't worry about this at all.

If you're trying to make a bar for yourself - don't just copy the Slingshot. Make a better bar:
- 20" bar, 24m (colored) lines
- low-V
- above the bar depower
- pick a compact (push-to-release) chickenloop assembly
- auto-swivel below the bar a-la Flysurfer/Core
- depower lines wrapped in plastic (if you can)
- bungees

If you're trying to start mass production of Slingshot copies It's like trying to mass-print bootleg copies of Mary Poppins DVD - it's neither legal nor moral nor smart.

I have a 20"x25m Compstick bar which I'd sell for $150. Pretty economical solution if you need a bar to ride.

[jumptheshark]

SS front lines are labeled 65cm longer than their rear lines to make up for the really long (1.47m) rear line leaders on the bar. The 20m, 23m or 27m line length measure is for the rear flying lines only, so the total lengths are almost 21.5m and 24.5m and 28.5m from the bar to the pigtail on the kite.

The 17", 20" or 23" length is neither B or F, but in between. It's the distance between the where the lines exit the top of the winders, not the very inside of the winders on the bar (B) or the actual length of the bar (F).

So:

A = whatever line length is advertised (20m, 23m or 27m) plus 1.47 m
B = advertised bar length less and inch on either side so (17", 20" or 23") - 2"
C = variable because the cleat can be moved up and down the line to suit arm length.
D = approx 82cm, measure is from the top (not bottom) of the front line splitter, to the bottom of the bar or top of the BB swivel/CL unit, not the top surface of the bar as diagramed.
E = approx 32cm
F = advertised bar length plus 1.25" on either end so (17", 20" or 23") plus 2.5"

This was all taken from a 2015 bar with below bar depower cleat.

SS have a weird difference between front and rear flying lines in their line sets because of the way they do the rear bar leaders, but in the end all 4 lines are equal for tuning purposes like most bars on the market.

Great bars but room for improvement. They are tough, but not super light. The one pictured above with the below bar swivel is their best effort IMO. Really like their bar ends, their centre hole with raised lip to reduce finger pinch, their grip and their lines. Though all white which is not ideal on snow, their rear line leaders are thick and tough. Great in winter for keeping the actual flying line from coming in contact with the snowboard edges while seated with the kite down. Pros and cons to every bar. As to covering the depower line with plastic.... Personally don't really like it. Gets too stiff in cold conditions and impedes sheeting while turning the kite.